Ben, Devin, and I set out to find a
special place, a spot where nobody else in the writing program was thinking of
going, or seeing. A location so real, and untouched that tourists would be
foreign, and the experience would be new. We left for Sorrento, a beachy
tourist town, and we would stay there at night and go out the next day for the
remote. Just getting to Sorrento was an odyssey all on its own. Ben, Devin, and
I all hopped on the fast train out of Rome Termini next to the Capitol after
catching the tram to there from our place in Trestevere, all the while under
the harsh Roman sun.
It had to have been the most interesting
yet berserk train ride I’ve ever been on. About an hour and a half in I was awakened
by what it seemed like three tanned chubby brothers yapping at each other
walking through our cart, half way through the biggest likely to be the oldest
brother planted a foot, pivoted, looked the poor soul of the medium sized boy
in the eyes and absolutely slapped him into oblivion. The culprit without any
doubt turned back around and kept walking. The brother that was struck let out
a gasp and kept walking too; he seemed to have known his place. Almost
immediately after that the train came to a complete stop next to a wild and
raging brush fire. My flight senses shot to my bag, which I slung over my
shoulder, and I jumped in the direction of the nearest exit, completely
oblivious to Ben and Devin still sitting but wide-eyed watching the flames
grow.
“What
the.. why is the train stopped?” Devin said.
“Dude
this is not good.” Ben said.
“Damn
if I blow up in the Italian country side, not yet.” I said.
Then
the train slowing started chugging again leaving the ripping flames behind, I
sat down and just shook my head and closed my eyes.
I woke up in what seemed to be the
Detroit of Italy, Naples. From Naples we were supposed to take another train to
Sorrento. We wanted to leave immediately; the place seeped of dirt, and fear.
It wasn’t a place to stay, or see, at least from the train station. We jumped
on the second train, which was more reminiscent of a subway than anything. The
thing came after we waited in the dank train station for it to roll up for
thirty minutes. The amount of people waiting was far more than its legitimate
capacity, and as soon as those doors swung open everyone on that platform ran
through as if their lives depended on it. We pushed and pulled through the maze
and got to an area where we could stand and hold on through every screech and
stop. We met a couple from New Jersey that were backpacking right down and
around the whole continent. The man, a history teacher, and the woman, a nurse.
Real salt of the earth, I turned to Devin, and said,
“Those
are the kinds of people that make countries.”
He
nodded as if he was thinking the exact thing.
Eventually we were able to sit and I
wrote down each stop’s name. The road, or way to Sorrento was long and hot,
flying through Ercolano, Pompeii, Portici, Bellavista, Cavavilla de Bronzo,
flowing in and out of dark tunnels with rattling trains blowing by, past South
Gorgio a Cremano, Pozzo. Us guys had been split up and Ben was sitting with
three other men, and Devin with two and a younger lady. She was on the phone
going back and forth with the person on the other end. The Barra stop came, and
the man sitting across from her got up and left. I went over and sat down and
started talking with Devin, mostly cursing the elements, and the dark
atmosphere of the subway even with the cabins scorching hot. The younger blonde
lady looked up at me and said,
“Ciao.”
I
looked back, and said, “English?”
She
smiled, and nodded her head.
“You
ever been to Nettuno?” I asked.
“No,
I heard it’s beautiful, but hard to get to kinda.”
“Yeah,
we are from America, and want to see real Italy, the small towns, and stuff.”
“You
staying in Napoli?”
“No,
no, Roma, we are students, writers.”
“Aaah,
I study Economics, much easier than writing.”
“I
don’t know about that.”
We
sat talking for a few more stops until hers rolled up, San Giovanni. She added
me on Facebook, and said she’d be in Rome for the Holi Festival. I nodded and
waved goodbye.
About twenty more minutes and we
were in Sorrento. We dropped our things off, grabbed some sandwiches, a few
beers, and a couple bottles of wine and went to the beach. It was already about
eight thirty or so, and we just sat there on the beach and watched the night
come in. It was all good and okay there, no real worries about anything.
The next morning came and we hopped
on another bus to take us to our special location and beach, Netunno. The
winding crazed road in made me think that every bus driver must have been a
real professional, there was no messing around in those parts, you had to have
ice cold veins, and strong white knuckles, because past the small brick ledge
was infinity down the plush beautiful hills. I imagined the headline: 3 good old American boys, and a few random
Italians blow up in beautiful spectacle seen from every corner of the coast.
About an hour past and we woke up in
Nettuno. We found the nearest bar, grabbed a few beers, and sandwiches and laid
out on the rocks. At first you see a rock beach and it looks terrible and
crude, but after a while it wasn’t too bad, and I came to appreciate the fact
that I didn’t have sand in every corner of my body. We sat there talking,
sleeping, making stacks of rocks. I saw two young Italian boys playing
volleyball in the water, and I went in for a swim. I went over to them and
asked if I could play, ten minutes past and Devin was in on it as well. We
dove, jumped, fell over, and laughed in the water for forty-five minutes or so.
The little boys probably around ten or twelve were just as old as Devin and I
were, and me and Devin as old as them, they didn’t speak English, we didn’t
speak Italian, but it didn’t matter, we were all just kids playing in the water
enjoying a break from the heat, and I thought sitting back on the beach, these
are the things I’ll remember. I won’t remember an assignment sitting on my
deathbed moments away, I won’t remember the score of that game, or how great
that song was, I’ll remember the interaction, the meeting of people, her smile,
the ways the boys would laugh, the essence of things, places, real beauty, and all
the colors.
One of the mothers got my attention,
and said that us playing with them was very nice. She spoke great English,
along with a few of the other ladies that were with her.
“You
have to go there for dinner, and get an ‘uggo’, good seafood too.”
“All
right, yeah we will.”
“And
how’d you find out about this place? We never see tourists.. well, tourists
from so far away.”
“You
know, I’m not really sure.”
“I
guess things just happen sometimes.” She said.
“Yeah,
I suppose.”
The last bus left for Nettuno at eleven,
and it was only eight or so by this time so we headed up for dinner. A kind middle-aged
Italian man sat us to our seats, and I ordered three uggos off the jump.
Minutes later he came out with the cold beverages, along with some appetizers
that never were counted into the bill. The drinks were so perfect, and the view
so gorgeous, watching the sun drop into the sea that I thought now everything
will be underwhelming, nothing at all will ever beat this moment. We sipped
three more glasses of the celestial drink, and all got the spaghetti, with
seafood just as the women advised, and Jesus I’ve never felt so fulfilled. We
sat there and watched the colors become more purple, and rapt, and the upper
regions come alive. There was nowhere else then, nobody else, just the stars,
and the open sky. It eventually got dark enough that the moon came out and it
was almost right on the edge of the horizon, huge, and bulbous, and the darkest
shade of orange. Over the next half hour it rose, and ascended into the high
sky illuminating more with color in every stage. It didn’t seem real, and I don’t
know if it still was, we all could of been dreaming off of the celestial drink
just imagining life to be that wild, and impulsive, mother nature was truly
messing with our minds right then with no regret, just whispering,
“Just
keep watching boys, you haven’t seen anything, yet.”
And
I kept sitting there and thinking,
“well,
I don’t know if I even want to anymore.”
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